Visiting Seoraksan National Park and Nami Island in Autumn

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Before coming to South Korea to teach English, I knew that if I wanted to make the most of my time living here, I was going to have to create and stick to a very intense bucket list. There are so many things to do in South Korea, and I knew that if I didn’t come with a plan, I would just fall into a routine and not make a conscious effort to really be proactive in planning excursions. I would let the prime seasons for certain activities slip right by me if I didn’t plan in advance! So I got to work and created an elaborate one year plan for my time here in South Korea. (Are you all interested in this bucket list being a separate blog post? I know that English teachers are frequently only here for a year so if you want the ultimate one year itinerary for South Korea - drop a comment below!!) Anyways, at the very top of my bucket list was visiting Seoraksan National Park as well as Nami island during Autumn.

Fall in Korea is absolutely stunning, and as a big hiking fan (with a whole separate South Korea hiking bucket list), I knew that Seoraksan National Park in particular during the fall was going to be absolutely magical. The only problem is that I live in Busan, and the only transportation options from Busan to Seoraksan were a 50 dollar train from Seoul (there and back) plus a 20 dollar bus ride to Seoraksan (there and back), which would take 10 hours roundtrip, or a 10 hour public transportation bus ride (one way) — the logistics of actually making this trip happen were making my brain SPIN.

Fortunately, there are lots of different tour companies that make trips like this possible. Normally, I’m not a big tour person. My family loves the occasional walking tour when we have limited time in new cities, but as far as overnight guided tours go, I can’t say that I’ve really ever done one. I love my freedom, avoiding crowds, and not being the annoying person to arrive to an attraction on a tour bus - so I was a little hesitant to book the tour.

But it was such a fabulous decision, let me TELL YOU. The one I chose has busses that pick you up in your city and drive you straight there, getting you there in about 4 or 5 hours (less if you’re traveling from Seoul!) The hotel was included in the price, as well as a buffet breakfast, and entry tickets to both Nami Island as well as Seoraksan National Park.

• Tours for Seoraksan National Park

Originally, Nami island during the fall had also been on my bucket list, but because of it’s mildly inconvenient location in relation to Busan, I took it off, never expecting myself to actually follow through with it. So, when I found a tour that took you to both Nami Island and Seoraksan all in one weekend - during Autumn, which is exactly when I wanted to go - I was absolutely sold. To top it off, it came out to about 120 USD, which is basically what transportation ~alone~ would cost if I chose to go by myself. I booked my ticket instantly, and then roped in three of my friends to come on the adventure with me.

And boy, what a whirlwind adventure it was!

Nami Island

We met at the bus early in the morning, and set off for Nami Island. The tour was full of other English teachers around our age, so even if I chose to go by myself, I think I would’ve been okay with making friends.

First things first: Nami island!

To be completely honest, while Nami island was gorgeous, and we loved walking around in all the nature, we went probably a week or two too early. The leaves hadn’t really completely turned, and there was much more green than reds, oranges, and yellows. If you choose to plan a trip to either of these destinations I would recommend the first weekend in November! I loved getting to see Nami island, although I’m not entirely sure I would make the trip again.

The island was very cute. There were lots of different trails taking you all over, lots of different types of trees and gardens, and some mediocre restaurants, but the island itself you could easily walk around in less than an hour. It was VERY touristy, but I just couldn’t quite figure out why people flock to it and make the lengthy trip out when there honestly wasn’t much to see.

The main attraction in my opinion is the row of Ginko trees that turn neon yellow. Towards the end of november, the leaves cover the ground and it turns into a tunnel of the brightest gold - but when we went they were still pretty green:/ The editing of my pictures saved it a little bit, full disclosure, but Nami island during the true end of fall would definitely be even more beautiful.

I’m grateful I had the opportunity to go but glad I didn’t go through the hassle of figuring it out myself.

Seoraksan National Park

The next day was the true star of the show - Seoraksan National Park. When we arrived, were were told about three or four different hikes that we could do in the amount of time we had. While I would’ve loved to spend the whole weekend at Seoraksan, that just wasn’t an option. There is definitely more than one hike I wanted to complete during my time there, but I worked with what I had and dragged my friends up the main road, past the big buddha statue, and to the Ulsanbawi trail head.

• Where to stay near Seoraksan National Park

All the posts I read about this particular hike said that the first 75 percent of the hike was extremely easy, with just a slight incline and the steep stairs starting in the last 25 percent.

Let me just tell you right now: that is NOT TRUE.

In fact, the opposite is true. the easy part ends at about 25 percent of the way in, and the rest is stairs. If you’re not a fan of heights (not sure why you would be hiking if you are but it happens so I’m here to warn you) the stairs towards the end can make you really dizzy. you’re basically hanging off the side of a cliff face with a straight down drop, and with the wind blowing, it was definitely not for the faint of heart.

It took us about two and a half hours to hike up, and about one hour to hike down. We took frequent rests for those in our group with the fear of heights as well as shorter legs, so maybe you could do it in less.

The view at the top, however, was well worth the knee and ankle pain that all of us woke up the next day with. Ulsanbawi is nicknamed something like “the dinosaur ridge”, and for good reason. The jagged ridge of rocks rising up out of the mountains isn’t something you see every day!

From above, the fall foliage actually surprised us with how colorful it was! We came in with low expectations fall-foliage-wise, but were pleasantly surprised.

One thing to note is that It was not, despite of its difficulty, a secluded hike by any means. The trail was PACKED with small children (we were very impressed), old men in full hiking suits, fellow tour bus members, as well as half the Korean population (at least that’s what it felt like). At the top, there was a long line for the iconic photo ops, as well as people camping out in the limited space, cooking their ramen, eating their Kimbap, and taking a rest before hiking down.

There also wasn’t much room at the top, so we took our photos and began the descent down.

Now originally, I had wanted to complete Ulsanbawi as fast as possible and move on to the other hike I had my sights set on - a cave carved into the face of a mountain - where an actual monk lives! But we were tied to the bus schedule and did NOT want to get left behind with no way home.

So we played it safe, ordered some beef bulgogi and ice cream, and lay in the sunlight for the last two hours we had in Seoraksan National Park.

When we were all back on the bus, we were able to talk to people who took the trail to the waterfalls (the easiest trail), some people who took the cable car up to see a similar view to Ulsanbawi but without the strenuous stairs, and also one who hiked the highest peak in the national park!

We all showed each other pictures and then PROMPTLY fell asleep for the majority of the ride home.

One thing I would say is that If you travel to Seoraksan national park in Autumn, consider staying overnight! There are so many things to do and different hikes to complete, and the fall is definitely peak season! I already wish that i was able to return. Unfortunately, I probably won’t make it back, so learn from my mistakes! if you love hiking and fall-foliage hunting, definitely put a visit to Nami Island and Seoraksan national park during the fall on your bucket list. .